Frequently Asked Questions

Simple answer is NO….. Treating the surface of the metal does not replace the mechanical lube needed between the wheel and the axle to reduce friction. You will always still need lube not matter what wheel and axle prep is done.

Complicated answer: There are at least two types of friction forces fighting a pinewood derby car. Kinetic (sliding) friction force– when an object moves. And static friction force – when an object tries to move. Friction is what slows our derby cars down. If we can reduce friction, we will have a faster car. How do you reduce friction?  Proper wheel and axle preparation and lubrication will reduce both kinetic and static friction to help us achieve a faster car.

What we want to do is reduce that kinetic and static friction forces. During the race, the wheel hubs will rub on the axles. I talked about how to manually reduce those friction forces through axle and wheel preparation. However, even if after you have properly prepared and polished your axles and wheels, there can still be more done to reduce friction.  Choosing the best lube is the final step. Every millisecond adds up!

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This is simple yet complicated.

The best we can answer is using this decision tree:
https://www.derbydust.com/information/pinewood-derby-wheels/

If you do not see an answer, then it is not addressed. Therefore it is allowed is the motto of most.

Usually the most common illegal modification is the use of weight reduced wheels. Also written as lessening the weight of a wheel, removing material to make it considerably lighter are common statements made.

BE very CAREFUL of rules that other modifications are not allowed beyond what is listed. Those are the catch all gray rules that could get you eliminated. HOWEVER, there should be NO reason that a car gets D/Q once it passes inspection. After all that is what inspections are about.

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Super Tuner is simply the cool name we gave to the axle upgrade that we slot the head of the axle for adjustments with a flat head screwdriver. This saves the axle from damaged caused by multiple adjustments with pliers.

This DOES NOT MEAN RAIL RIDERS. THIS DOES NOT MEAN they are bent.

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So science wise….

3000 Grit for Dry Lubes

100,000 Grit for oils

However, may have raced with 100k for graphite with great results as feedback will show. Science says graphite is carbon, diamond is carbon. If you polish higher than 3k and you were to take a scope and look at things, the graphite will knock the shine off your 100k axles down to about 3k on the surface of things.

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Normally we do NOT install tungsten weights as we do not know what the final outcome of a car is going to be. Since we can not know how much paint stickers, whatever you are going to put on there, there is no way to gauge how much tungsten to place.

Secondly, because tungsten is so dense and hard, you can not drill it to reduce weight. Most of our car bodies are already have great amounts of wood weight removed. If we are overweight after you paint, then there is no real way to “remove” weight to get race compliant.

Thirdly, we do not know what type of track or build you are building to properly balance the car for your specific track. So many different tracks.

Lead cars will 99% of the time will have weight installed, with the exception of the 5 and 7 slot wedges as those were our first “cross over” weight designs that could use both tungsten and lead. For those we provide 3 lead “bricks” for you to install.

Majority of our car designs were done with lead as the weight. And that lead must be poured into holes that we drill. Trying to fill the holes with fishing weights is not going to work. You need the entire holes filled with molten lead to get it to be race ready.

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Can you pack Derby Dust Dry Lube?

Quick answer is NO.  The flake size is too big.  -325 mesh graphite will the the packable graphite.  Do we recommend it?  I have read a few posts where cars were dq because the judges interpreted it is a graphite bearing.  Because of this, we do not suggest.

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We do not carry Ready to Race Pinewood derby cars.

We suggest:  Shopvelox.com or Humble21creations.com

We sell at our Amazon Store Ready to Race Cars made by Shopvelox.com

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There is no brick and mortar store at this time.  

If you are in a super hurry and don’t need any custom parts, you can search our AMAZON store as there may be items near you store in FBA warehouse so that you may get same day or next day service.

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What is the fastest pinewood derby car body?

The fastest pinewood derby body is the one with the least amount of wood weight with biggest possible pockets.  3 degree rear camber axles, with 3 wheels touching.  We offer bodies under 9 grams if you have a good stop track!  Many choices under 20 grams of weight.

Click here to see which car bodies fit this description

 

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I have no idea what level of polish should I get?

This is based soley on lube and amount of work you intend to put into breaking in the car.

Graphite Lube – 3K, with proper graphite break-in

Oil Lube – 100k

If you are simply going to dust with graphite and race, not doing a BREAK – IN for graphite – 100K will give you the least amount of friction for multiple races

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So many wheels choices.  I have no idea what I can use.

Rule of thumb the lighter the wheel, the faster the car can go.  Try this neat little Decision Tree that I setup.  If you are still unsure, then send me a text 210.219.3977

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