First process in determining whether or not a wheel can make this “cut” is the inner bore. We first inspect the inner bore using a digital inspection scope. Only wheels with flawless inner bores are used for this wheel set. Because of this quality control, only 2 out of 10 wheels will meet this requirement. EVEN the BIG NAMED wheels do not have this type of quality. This ensures you have the best possible wheel to start with. There is no need in doing all the following modifications if your wheel fails at this requirement.First two pictures are of wheels that did not meet our standards. Many wheels have this void straight from factory which causes unknown wheel travel, binding, and wobble.

Derby Dust Black Op’s Wheels have inner hub free of voids.

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We do not reduce the width of the wheel. Since most packs do not allow this modification. Most are very descriptive about this modification.

The overall width is factory 0.360″

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We do not “true” the edges as that changes the width of the wheel which makes it illegal according to 90% of the pack rules.

We do not modify the inner hub portion that is closest to the body. Since we do not reduce the width of the wheel, there is no need to trim this area to make it appear to have the same gap.



 pinewood derby wheel black ops close up 


Edge of wheel is left factory to retain maximum strength as to reduce flexion and also to keep it within the specifications of the most strict of wheel rules.

 pinewood derby wheel cross section black opsWeight reduction is about 57% from stock giving this wheel an average weight of 1.50 grams.  See image to left to see what was done.

Our material is removed with precision CNC lathe using flood coolant to maintain proper plastic temperature to eliminate warping related to heat.  If plastic heats up, then it will cool out of round.  Important process that most do not consider.

There is no step present .  It is a gradual taper all the way to the front of the wheel.  .


 Pinewood derby wheel hub
Reduced outer hub.  We removed about 1/3 of the outer hub.  This modification decreases friction (Red area in picture). We have chosen to have a wider point of contact between your axle and wheel. We feel the larger outer ring provides more stable wheel travel when compared to just a rounded hub as most aftermarket wheels utilize. This helps the first time builders get the most speed and tuning out of their wheels. We also find that it eliminates most wheel wobble especially when installed on a 1.5-2 degree negative camber.Complies with rules by retaining outer ring.  We have a feeling others will soon start replicating our idea.

Coned hubs worked well with old style wheels.  This new modification works better with these wheels.  Works even better with tapered axle heads!

See our YouTube Comparison Experiment.




  • Wheel retains all of the lettering and numbering inside and out
  • Lighter Wheel weight than stock BSA wheels, decreasing rotational inertia, thus allowing quicker starts and overall times. Every thousand of a gram counts!
  • Can be run as is, or polished with plastic polish to remove micro scratches. You choose!
Derby Dust Polishing Kit / Service (Optional)Simple, no smoke and mirrors. No inflated costs. Guaranteed results. You can hear and see the difference. Increases speed, decreases overall time on my track around .01-.015 seconds on 30.75 feet measuring distance. Definitely a major difference.

Polishing removes all the micro scratches from the manufacturing and machining process of this wheel. By doing so, you make faster wheel with less friction. Do it yourself, or we can do it for you for a little more than the price of the kit.

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Lastly our wheel set that is not mold number matched. After all, the odds of getting all four matching wheel molds are not in your favor. That is the very first thing our judges look at to determine if aftermarket wheels are purchased. They do not even have to pull wheels to look. WE OFFER MATCH MOLDS if that is something you are interested in. Just click the option. #4 molds are never used. That is a bad mold.

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And just for general knowledge. These parts (wheels) cost about .02 to make (if even that) . I don’t make them. And I am more than positive, there is no real quality control other than does it look right. We do our best to make them better than what they come out. Just remember that the wheels never begin with good quality control. They are NOT perfect, and never will be. They are not machined from solid plastic, they are injection molded plastic. No matter what modifications are done to them, they are not precision wheels. You have to accept that. If your expectations are greater than that, I ask that you go and visit the location where these are made and watch them being made for an hour. See who is making them and watch the quality control process. We do our best to make them fast!